More Information

The miniatures you see here are 3D printed using photopolymer resin- a special type of liquid resin that activates and hardens through UV light, becoming a solid piece!

Resin miniatures are designed to be painted and used in tabletop gaming just like your standard plastic minis.

The minis sold here are not designed by me unless otherwise stated. While I'm "okay" at 3D design, I would much rather leave it to the professionals! instead I lease or purchase the rights to sell 3D-printed models made by REAL artists! Below are a handful of the talented sculptors and teams that I am officially licensed to sell from:

• MiniMonsterMayhem
• Rescale Minis
• DM Stash
• ClayBeastCreations
• DragonTrappersLodge
  
• Sordane Publishing
• Archvillain Games
• Oshouna Minis
• Kyoushuneko Minis
• Kaijumon
• The Witchguild
• Stationforge Classic
• MammothFactory
• Warp Miniatures

All of these people can be found on Patreon and/or MyMiniFactory. You should definitely check them out!

-NO AI-

The Workshop of Many has a strong Anti-AI stance when it comes to the use of generative AI in art. The Workshop of Many will never knowingly sell models created with generative AI.

Resin miniatures will always be more fragile than plastic miniatures, just due to the material limitations. Here at The Workshop, I use a resin that is slightly more resilient than average, but minis are fragile. If you open your box and the mini inside is broken, please reach out ASAP!

The resin miniatures sold here will often require assembly to the base at minimum, whereas larger pieces will require more in-depth assembly.

Cleaning the mini (Optional but recommended for larger pieces)

Some of the minis may have small pieces of hardened resin supports stuck to the mini, and some larger minis may have slight gaps that formed during the curing process. To address these, I usually use hobby picks and occasionally snips or a hobby knife to remove leftover support material, and small files or sandpaper to help address gaps. While no gap should be so large that it requires it, another helpful tool is Green Stuff or other hobby sculpting materials.

It's important to make sure that you follow proper hobby safety, especially when it comes to resin miniatures. Please make sure to wear PPE such as eye protection, gloves, and a mask when sanding, filing, or cutting pieces of minis. Sanding or filing minis should be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, using a wet-sand method, and while wearing a mask. The white dust particles from sanding minis is not safe to inhale and should be avoided at all times.

Glue Recommendations

When it comes to resin miniatures, the best adhesive is plain old cyanoacrylate (super glue). I would highly recommend either low-viscosity super glue (Liquid Control Super Glue) or high-viscosity super glue (also referred to as Super Glue Gel). Both are great for adhering the pieces together, and have pros and cons over eachother. I find that it's best to try a few glues if you plan to assemble a bunch of minis.

Assembly Process

When assembling, it's important to dry fit the pieces first to make sure you're confident in where the pieces need to go and where you can comfortably hold those pieces to keep them together while the glue sets. A small drop of glue on one of the pieces will often be more than enough for standard size character miniatures. I usually gently hold the pieces together, taking care not to break small details, for up to 30 seconds before slowly letting go and making sure the glue has set.

Assembly Tips and Troubleshooting

I've personally broken a lot of miniatures while attempting to assemble them, so I've compiled a list of things to keep in mind.

• Holding the minis for 30s or more is recommended, and with larger pieces I recommend holding it together as long as you can.
• Baking Soda is a superglue accelerant, dusting one piece with some and applying the glue to another can help a lot for larger models.
• If a mini fails to bond after a few failed attempts, you'll want to remove the dried glue before trying again.
• When gluing some larger pieces, I will often add some extra glue to other contact points after doing the initial bonding just to add some smaller bonds to help keep it in place.
• Superglue bonds skin, and fairly quickly, so try to avoid doing that to yourself.

Any acrylic or even oil paints should get the job done so long as the mini has been primed with an acrylic paint primer, but some paints are definitely better than others.

Standard acrylic paint is very thick and should be thinned down before being used on a mini, otherwise you could lose some of the finer details on smaller minis. There a huge selection of companies that specialize in paint specifically for your minis! Pro Acryl, Vallejo, Citadel, and AK Interactive to name a few.

These paints are thinner and easier to work with for small details and often have stronger pigments for more vibrant colors.

You're always more than welcome to reach out and ask me to look it over and tell you if I can print it for you or not.

Resin 3D-Printing is a much different process than the 3D printing you're used to hearing about. Resin printing uses photopolymer resins that starts off as a liquid, but is cured and hardened to a solid object through precise UV light. There are many different versions of this process, but the most common is commonly referred to as resin or LCD printers. Below is a look at the process of taking a mini from start to finish.

Starting the Print

Your typical 3D printer requires a digital object file to be converted into instructions for the 3D printer, and the same is true for resin printing! This process is often referred to as "Slicing" as it "slices" the model into layer-by-layer instructions. Resin printing works against gravity, so the models also typically have a large amount of support latices added to them, so that way they stay on the platform during printing. Once the model has been sliced and sent to the printer, the print begins! Resin printing is incredibly slow, as the average layer height is 50um (0.05mm). However, because resin printing uses light to cure the entire layer at the same time, the amount of time it takes to print one object, is the same as it would take to print 10 of that same object!

Cleaning the Print

Once the printer has finished, the pieces are placed in a series of baths of 99% Isopropyl alcohol, to remove the residual liquid resin. The baths are done in mixers that stir the alcohol around to effectively pull any residual gunk or goo off. This step is important, as liquid resin is not safe to touch, so it's important to make sure there is none left! The print is then put in a special dryer, that blows the alcohol off of it to make sure it's dry for the next steps.

After the print has been washed and dried, the support structure needs to be removed. this process can take quite some time, as you need to be careful to remove them without breaking the minis, as they're still extra-fragile at this stage. Sometimes a few supports will get missed, as there's a lot of them!

Curing the Print

Because resin minis are not fully cured when they're printed, and because liquid resin is hazardous, it's incredibly important that resin prints be cured again under UV light. This is done in special machines that rotate the pieces while a series of lights shine UV light directly onto them. These are cured for a minimum of 10 minutes to be extra-safe, before I inspect each of them by hand to make sure they feel as though they've been properly cured.

Packing It Up

Once I've inspected the model, I may let it sit out for a while to make sure that any gasses from the resin release naturally, as the final cure can cause "off-gassing". If your model has a slight chemical smell to it, this is most likely from a bit of that process lingering, as it can take a long time to happen naturally. During this time I will also go through and check again for any support material that is left on the print, and test fit some of the larger pieces.

Once everything is done, the pieces are packed up with some padding so they're ready for you to open up!